Within its ancient walls, Lucca holds some secrets and romance, whispers of love affairs and passions that defied convention. So, as in February people celebrate St. Valentine’s Day and love in general, I thought I could take you beyond the well-trodden tourist paths to tell you three unusual and less-known love stories from the city’s past.
INK AND HEARTBREAK: CHIARA MATRAINI
The Renaissance is generally known as a period of rebirth of the interest in art, literature, philosophy and education. Each city, especially in Tuscany, had intellectual clubs where poets, writers and philosophers could meet and discuss all these subjects. These circles were almost exclusive to men. However, this was a vibrant moment, encouraging some women to dare more to show their talents and intellect.
A great example is Chiara Matraini. Born in Lucca in 1515 in a wealthy family of silk manufacturers, she had a life as complex as the brocades produced in local workshops. Her father died when she was still a kid. Her brothers were involved in a famous local revolt, fighting to give more rights to the workers, but they were ultimately unsuccessful. One died in jail and the other was executed. So it was uncle Rodolfo who raised her.
The marriage with Vincenzo was arranged in her early youth, but soon she became a widow. From that year, 1542, Chiara left her in-law’s house to live by herself as a woman, a poetess and a musician. She would not be allowed for many years to see her son Federigo. Even because, she started a relationship with a married man, Bartolomeo Graziani.
They shared a passion for poetry, so they organized a literary club. Their way of life was not well accepted in the city. Later Bartolomeo was mysteriously murdered.
Despite these obstacles, Chiara dedicated herself to her verses, her rhymes and her translations. She did not receive a proper education, but she had this desire to write. Instead, if you like to know more about her life, this is a beautiful biography.
She published under her name at a time when many women writers still used pseudonyms or published anonymously. In her works, the main themes are: love and the life of a woman in the XVIth century, deeply connected to her city.
If you like to connect with this remarkable poet and woman, you can find her tomb inside Santa Maria Forisportam.
THE INSEPARABLE BRUSH STROKES: GIOVANNI COLI AND FILIPPO GHERARDI
Even when time is running out, I like to tell something about the frescoed ceiling on the apse inside St. Martin’s Cathedral. People can recognize the saints they have heard about during the tour, but I can also mention the special bond between Giovanni Coli and Filippo Gherardi.
They were born in Lucca, just a few years apart, in the 17th century. They probably did their artistic training in the workshop of the local master of their time: Pietro Paolini. So young and ambitious, they decided after four years that it was time to leave and find their way to Rome. Here, they got absorbed by the painter Pietro da Cortona, but even more, they could put together many sketches of those baroque perspectives. Their partnership became more solid. Being together gave them strength, courage and resilience to make the next move and go to Venice.
Giovanni was 28 years old, Filippo 21. They had been together for nine years and were about to achieve what they always wanted. Many commissions kept coming and they were in the position to choose who they liked to work for. For example, the seven paintings for the library in the convent of St. George island, it was an amazing opportunity!
Unfortunately, the success also brought some troubles to them: a painting got stolen, they got sick after a banquet, and the doctors suspected they were poisoned. So they were advised to leave the city. Their reputation was big and they continued to receive important commissions in Rome and eventually in 1678 in their hometown for the Cathedral apse.
This partnership ended in 1681, when Giovanni Coli died. Filippo Gherardi will continue to work on his one for 23 years and in the meantime he got married to Caterina Francesconi. However, in his will he specifically asked to be buried close to his good friend Giovanni in St. Cristoforo church, because “Death shall not divide those that in their lifetime had a tight bond thanks to Art, to Homeland and to Love”.
Still nowadays, critics find it difficult to recognize their respective style or hand. Between them the roles were not based on age or skills, there was not a specific task division. Their ability to blend was truly impressive.
TWO SOULS IN BAGNI DI LUCCA: EVANGELINA WHIPPLE AND ROSE CLEVELAND
The spa town attracted in the early 1900’s these two American women. I am sure the name Rose Cleveland could sound more familiar as her brother was the US President: Grover Cleveland. She served for a couple of years as the First Lady at the White House, but as soon as he got married, she left for Tuscany, Bagni di Lucca.
After years of correspondence and a deep friendship, Rose could join Evangeline. Finally, they found themselves free to live their love in the small town near Lucca. It is still unknown how they met. Evangelina was a thirty-year rich widow from Minnesota. “Precious and Adored” is a collection of their letters and it was recently translated in Italian.
Their villa became a center of cultural and intellectual activity. Both women were highly educated and passionate about literature, art, and social causes. They contributed significantly to their adopted community, engaging in charitable works and becoming beloved figures in the town. In particular, during the Spanish flu pandemic in 1918. They opened a field hospital with doctors from Florence and Livorno with the support of the local mayor and a good friend: Nelly Erichsen, an English illustrator and painter.
Now, they rest side by side in the English cemetery in Bagni di Lucca. Evangelina died in 1930 in London, but she asked to be buried close to Rose. She also dedicated the book A famous corner of Tuscany to her.
I hope you got intrigued by these love stories and as your guide, I can take you to visit all these places where romances unfolded, so book a tour with me to experience the romantic soul of Lucca!