Perhaps, when you wander through the narrow streets of Lucca, you will notice one powerful word like a blazon across the city: LIBERTAS.
This Latin word means freedom or liberty, it is much more than a simple decoration. It is the keyword for understanding the essence of Lucca’s identity and historical pride. It is the official city motto.
THE ORIGINS OF LUCCA’S FREEDOM
Lucca’s relationship with liberty dates back to 1369 when the city successfully purchased its independence from Emperor Charles IV of Bohemia.
For the remarkable sum of 300,000 florins, Lucca secured its status as a free Republic, after being for almost 20 years under the control of Pisa. Something that, as you may already know, still hurts. However, the city would maintain this independence until Napoleon’s arrival in 1799.
This long and extraordinary period of self-governance made Lucca quite an exception, a study case compared to Italian history in general.
THE SYMBOLS THROUGHOUT THE CITY
The LIBERTAS panel
Many buildings and gates display the word LIBERTAS carved in capital letters as a warning, a statement, and a reminder. Sometimes, you will see the city flag in red and white in the background.
The Panther
Less known to visitors, but extremely important, it’s an all-time favorite of mine: the panther.
According to the local tradition and interpretation, this fierce animal represents independence and how the city has always been ready to defend its freedom. But it also to be a lone, demure and elegant creature at the same time. This was the image the city wanted to communicate to the others. So you can take your kids around for a little city safari trying to spot this animal on buildings, on paintings and some monuments.
Rumors and legends say that during the fascist regime, there was a real panther on the walls in a cage to strike fear and respect, as much as to entertain the kids. Nowadays, some sports teams are called the Pantere or they have it on their flag.
A painting
Villa Guinigi is a museum with such a huge collection that the paintings in the last rooms can easily go unnoticed. Instead, you should save some focus on The Allegory of Liberty by Paolo Guidotti.
In this masterpiece, Liberty is identified as a woman sitting on a throne, dressed in white and wearing a crown and a beautiful jewel on her chest. With one foot, she is stepping over a naked female figure to represent the victory of freedom over oppression. This painting is a wonderful representation of the city’s devotion to liberty. It is a true visual manifesto filled with symbols and messages, which I would love to share with you during a tour.
Although Guidotti’s style might not be exactly to your taste, I am sure you will agree that this remarkable work provides a vivid glimpse into how the Lucchese people felt their precious freedom during the XVII century.
LIBERTAS IN PRESENT-DAY LUCCA
Today you can experience this legacy by looking for these hints, but you could be lucky to be here for the annual Domenica in Albis (White Sunday). On this special day: the first Sunday after Easter, for almost a week, there will be many events and historical parades. The main celebration will be the crossbow competition (Palio).
As soon as Emperor Charles IV gave back the Liberty in 1369, the new republican government issued a new city division into three terzieri (thirds). Each one had its own distinct character. Even more, each third maintained its army and participated in the complex system of checks and defense in case of any military attack. If you would like to know more about this division, you can download my freebie guide!
We can explore better this theme during a tour, starting from the walls. They are themselves a symbol of the city’s determination to remain free. I hope that by reading this blogpost, you will remember that when you see the word LIBERTAS carved into panels, you will not just be looking at a word.